Tips to keep chickens cool!

Here in Texas we are quickly approaching Summer and that means you need to stock up on electrolytes for your girls.  Chickens will die if they are too hot.  If you see your chickens panting, they are too hot!  

Go ahead and offer them regular cold water, and another container of "chicken-aid".  I mix up a gallon every night before bed and keep it in the fridge. Here are some other tips to keep chickens cool!   

I let my chickens free range when its this hot, they know where they feel coolest(aka under the porch)  So I place water close to where they will be. Just walking around will over heat a hen, so don’t make them travel far for water.  I also have a box fan to keep air moving under there.  

In moderate weather a hen may drink a pint of water a day.  In hot weather, that amount nearly doubles.  Two pints a day X 6 hens = 12 pints people!!

Water EVERYWHERE: but don’t be thoughtless… a 5 gallon bucket of water is not the way to go.  If its not good for a toddler its not good for a chicken.  Keep  the bowls/pan shallow.

Shade: every animal should have plenty of shade to get into on hot days.

​Frozen water balloons make BIG ice cubes for waters.

Ice in drinking water: keeps the drinking water cool and helps lower body temperature. Chickens don't like drinking hot water either!  You can freeze water balloons to make big ice cubes.  Just make sure they fit through the top.  

Wading pools: fill inexpensive kitty litter trays with water for chickens to wade in.  Refill and wash it out twice a day. (this can make a huge difference)

Frozen water bottles: chickens can lay against these to keep cool.  Use larger 2 liter or gallon jugs to last longer before needing refreezing.  Put a towel over them for chicks that are not fully feathered. (keep them away from your food, or keep them in plastic bags while in your freezer)

Fans: Fans can be used, but keep in mind the dangers of chickens and fan blades.  Also, make sure the chickens can get out of the wind if they want.  You are trying to keep them happy not torture them!

Misters: a mister is a system that shoots a fine mist of water into the air to cool the air.  This works best in dryer climates and can be used in the run, in a shady spot, or in the coop so long as you are aware that it might leak a bit and cause wet bedding.

Electrolytes: if a chicken suffering from heat becomes lethargic, treat with electrolytes.  Powdered electrolytes can be purchased from feed stores and veterinary suppliers.  Store bought electrolyte drinks can be used but have a high sugar content.  Pedialyte, found in the infant food aisle is better than Gatoraid because it is lower in sugar content.

​Watermelon:  ​Chickens love melon and it is a great way to keep them cool.  Just don't over feed them.  It is very messy.

Cool off the coop:​ ​Spray down the roof of the coop a few times a day if you can.  

104 here we go..

Well, I knew it was coming... and after 4 years I still can't stand the heat  in Dallas.  We have about 72+ days that will totally suck, but stay diligent about your chicken chores!  Keeping chickens in the winter is MUCH easier than keeping them in the Summer.   I let my chickens free range when its this hot, they know where they feel coolest (aka under the porch)  So I place water close to where they will be.  Just walking around will over heat a hen, so don't make them travel far for water.  I also have a box fan to keep air moving under there.  

Tips to keep your chickens cool

• Water EVERYWHERE  (but don't be stupid... a 5 gallon bucket of water is not the way to go.  If its not good for a toddler its not good for a chicken.  Keep  the bowls/pan shallow.
• Shaded areas.  If you don't have shade, you better start making some.  Here are some good options.
• Water to stand in.  I use shallow pans and keep them in shady spots.  (Lola is a swimmer)
• Electrolytes in their water (if they are panting / drinking a lot) will help replace the electrolytes they are losing. Get them here  (give plain water & chicken-aid)
• In moderate weather a hen may drink a pint of water a day. In hot weather, that amount nearly doubles.  Two pints a day X 6 hens = 12 pints people!!
• Fresh water throughout the day. (water left out in the sun will soon be warmed, so it is nice to replace it with new cool water every now and then if you can).  A few ice cubes in the water can help keep it cooler for longer.

Cool fruits such as watermelon, can help cool and refresh your chickens on a hot summers day.

• Ventilation in the coop.
• Frozen ice packs - freeze 2 litre plastic bottles of water (or similar) as something cool that can be hung or laid on the floor of the coop or in a shaded area of the run for them to sit by or perch on if they want to. (if you can place the bottles in something like a zip-lock bag then they should be kept clean so that they can go back into the freezer ready for another hot day).
• Cool fruits such as watermelon (straight from the fridge for extra coolness!) will help cool and hydrate your chickens.
• A fan in the coop.  A well ventilated coop may not need a fan, but in very hot weather if there is no air circulation the heat they expel from their own bodies can increase the temperature even further.

Chicken Health and Supplies

Here in Texas we are quickly approaching Summer and that means you need to stock up on electrolytes for your girls.  Chickens will die if they are too hot.  If you see your chickens panting, they are too hot.  Go ahead and offer them regular cold water, and another container of "chicken-aid".  I mix up a gallon every night before bed and keep it in the fridge. Here are some other tips to keep chickens cool!   I use ALL of the below methods together all summer long and I don't have a drop in egg production.  If your not lazy, the chickens wont be either...

Heat: 

Shade every animal should have plenty of shade to get into on hot days.

Ice in drinking water keeps the drinking water cool and helps lower body temperature.

Frozen water bottles chickens can lay against these to keep cool.  Use larger 2 liter or gallon jugs to last longer before needing refreezing.  Put a towel over them for chicks that are not fully feathered.

Wading pools fill inexpensive kitty litter trays with water for chickens to wade in. (this can make a huge difference)

Fans fans can be used, but keep in mind the dangers of chickens and fan blades.

Misters a mister is a system that shoots a fine mist of water into the air to cool the air.  This works best in dryer climates and can be used in the run, in a shady spot, or in the coop so long as you are aware that it might leak a bit and cause wet bedding.

Electrolytes if a chicken suffering from heat becomes lethargic, treat with electrolytes.  Powdered electrolytes can be purchased from feed stores and veterinary suppliers.  Store bought electrolyte drinks can be used but have a high sugar content.  Pedialyte, found in the infant food aisle is better than Gatoraid because it is lower in sugar content.

Cold Watermelon is a great treat to keep the ladies cool.

My tractor supply doesn't have a lot of chicken medication, so here is a great website for buying chicken health supplies!

While we are on the subject, I found this great "feed" of information at the backyard chicken website.  I added it to mine so I can quickly reference it!

Re-blogged from backyard chickens.com 

NOTICE:  These are not necessarily veterinary recommendations.  These are simply treatments that have worked for those recommending them.  Use them at your own risk.  Whenever possible/feasible, please seek the advice of a livestock or avian vet.  Also, this list is a light general reference and not a comprehensive guide to the medicinal needs of chickens.

If your flock is suffering an unidentified illness, contact your local extension office for information regarding testing.  Knowing what you face gives you the power to make the best decisions regarding your course of action.

I recommend having sterile gloves (nitrile or latex) for handling wounds and medications.

Contents of This Post Poultry Medications Vaccination Information Wound Care Pain Relief Stress Relief Minor Burn Care Respiratory Illness Eye Care Eye Worm Coccidiosis Foot and Leg Problems Mites, Lice, Fleas Heat Pasty Butt (Blocked Vent) Impacted and Sour Crop Wry Neck (Crooked Neck) Worms Normal and Abnormal Poops Avian Diseases Transmissible to Humans

Pressing the ctrl and f keys at the same time will give you a search box where you can enter any of these terms to find them below more easily.

Poultry Medications

See here for a pdf list of medications for avian use, what they treat, and problems that may arise from their use.

**WARNING ABOUT MEDICATIONS** Many medications have a withdrawal period.  Do not eat eggs or slaughter for consumption during the withdrawal period.  Click here for a pdf list of withdrawal periods for many medications.  Also, be careful to read the label for any medication you give your animals.

Vaccination Information Click here for an excellent page at the University of Florida IFAS Extension regarding vaccinating small flocks.

Wound Care

Saline for flushing wounds to clean them of debris.  Can be applied with the large droppers you get in the infant section for dosing medication or with a large, needleless syringe.  Saline can be purchased by the bottle at some pharmacies or as eyewash kits, though the eyewash kits are often more expensive and do already come with an ideal attachment for dispensing.

Vetericyn topical wound treatment labeled as safe for birds and safe for animals to lick.  See the Vetericyn website and the drug label information for more information.

Neosporin topical first aid ointment for wound treatment.  Can be used on eyes.

Honey - honey can be applied directly to infected wounds and covered.  Honey has natural antibacterial and healing properties.

* Some have recommended Blu-Kote and use it without issue, however, the label states not to allow the animal to lick it and states that it is not for use on food producing animals.  See here to read the label information.  Also, it does produce blue staining.

Vet Wrap - this is a bandage that adheres to itself and is great for wrapping wounds.  It is basically the same stuff as an Ace self-adhesive wrap bandage for humans but comes in a larger variety of sizes and colors and generally costs less.

Styptic powder use to stop bleeding in cases where direct pressure may not be a viable option.  Flour can be used as a styptic powder or you can buy styptic powder at most pet stores (they carry it for nails cut too deeply).  Kwik Stop styptic powder is labeled for use on birds.

Therapeutic grade oregano oil natural general purpose antibiotic for use on external bacterial infection.  Does not create resistant bacterial strains like synthetic antibiotics do.  Some reports indicate it can be used internally as an effective natural antibiotic, as well.  Must be therapeutic grade.

Duramycin-10 (tetracycline hydrochloride) broad spectrum antibiotics for use in chickens and other livestock.  See the drug label information for dosage and usage information.  When antibiotic treatment is complete, feed plain yogurt or buttermilk to restore good gut flora.

Pain Relief

Aspirin - for pain relief.  Dosage is approximately 25 mg per pound of chicken's body weight each day (A standard baby Aspirin is 80 mg, and a standard adult Aspirin pill is 325 mg).  This information is from the Poultry Podiatry website.  Warning: aspirin thins the blood and should not be used if internal bleeding is suspected or in cases where a wound will not stop bleeding.

Stress Relief

Bachs Rescue Remedy a mixture of flower extracts that have a calming effect.  Find it at Whole Foods or online.  Rescue Remedy has an effective calming effect that can be used to calm stressed or injured animals.  Is also effective for people.

Minor Burn Care

Aloe Use to treat burns - ideally directly from an aloe vera plant.  Simply cut or break an outer leaf off and squeeze the juice out.  Smear or drip onto the burn to sooth and aid in healing.   Works great for humans, too, but do not use on cats (aloe is toxic to cats).

Respiratory Illness

See here for comprehensive information from the University of Florida regarding respiratory illness in poultry.  This site from the American Poultry Association also provides information on respiratory illness in poultry.

Oxine without activator!  Use as disinfectant or in humidifier/fogger to treat respiratory illness.  Use to clean coop surfaces after pest infestations such as mites and lice.  Add to water to discourage slime growth.  Can be used with activator to thoroughly disinfect EMPTY animal houses (do NOT use activated Oxine around animals).  See this link for more.

Humidifier or fogger for treating respiratory illness with Oxine.

Duramycin-10 (tetracycline hydrochloride) broad spectrum antibiotics for use in chickens and other livestock.  See the drug label information for dosage and usage information.  When antibiotic treatment is complete, feed plain yogurt or buttermilk to restore good gut flora.

Tylan 50 labeled for cattle or swine use to treat bacterial respiratory infections such as coryza or mycoplasma.  Dosage is 1/2 1 cc per chicken.  When antibiotic treatment is complete, feed plain yogurt or buttermilk to restore good gut flora.

Eye Care

Saline eye wash - saline eye wash kits come with an applicator designed to go over the eye.  The saline helps clean the eye prior to treatment and is ideal for cleaning debris from a wound in the eye.

Neosporin topical first aid ointment for wound treatment.  Can be used on eyes.

Terramycyn eye ointments - an antibiotic eye ointment used to treat bacterial infections of the eye.  You can get this at most pet suppliers.

Eye Worm

You can see eye worms using a magnifying glass to examine the eye.  Treat with equal parts of Valbazen and water mixture dropped into the eye and dose orally with Valbazen 1/2cc.  Repeat treatment in 10 days.

Coccidiosis

Coccidiosis is a parasitic infection in which parasites frequently found in soil or bird feces infect the intestines of domestic birds, growing quickly.  It can be fatal but any chicken surviving an infection will be immune to future infections.  The video here may be difficult to watch, but is educational and shows how a symptomatic chicken behaves.

Medicated feed grower feeds medicated with Amprolium do not prevent infection.  Chicks receive low doses of medication to better manage infection once chicks are exposed.  This gives chicks a better chance of surviving their initial infection and earning their natural immunity.  Feed medicated feed until two weeks after chicks are put outside where they may be exposed.

Corid larger dose of Amprolium used to manage infection.  It is easier on the chickens system than other treatments.  Corid should be your first line of defense if it is available.

Sumlet 12.5% Solution this is Sulfamethazine, which is much harder on the chicken.  Only use Sumlet if you cannot get Corid or if Corid proves ineffective.

If you are unable to find either of these locally, here is a pdf list of medications that may be used to treat Coccidiosis.

Foot and Leg Problems

See the Poultry Podiatry page for more information on treating leg and foot problems.

Tricide-Neo powder labeled for fish use to treat bumble foot.  Soak foot for 5 minutes each day but be careful not to get it on yourself (wear sterile gloves during treatment).  Works in about a week or so.  This is recommended by a vet, please see this post.  See the Poultry Podietry page to make a sling to hold the chicken for soaking.

Mites, Lice, Fleas

Treat birds directly using any of the following methods along with disinfecting the coop.  Eliminate any bedding that may be infested and clean the coop thoroughly.

Oxine without activator!  Use to clean coop surfaces after pest infestations such as mites and lice.  Add to water to discourage slime growth.  Can be used with activator to thoroughly disinfect EMPTY animal houses (do NOT use activated Oxine around animals).  See this link for more.

Sevin Dust use 5%, not 10%.  place body of chicken in a plastic bag with the head sticking out of the bag.  Do not put a chickens head in a plastic bag!!  Add Seven Dust, hold bag closed at neck, and shake gently to coat bird with powder. (honestly, I wouldn't do this at all unless you have something crazy going on)

Scalex Mite/Lice Spray (8 oz)  This is the product that I use and have not had any problem.  I spray the inside of the coop  during bedding changes. (Make sure you remove the food and water)  You can also spray this directly on the chickens.

Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) use on mite scales to suffocate mites out and soften the scales down.

Eprinex ivomec pour mange mites, lice, and horn flies but only as a last resort if other treatments prove ineffective.  Widespread use of Eprinex causes resistance in worms to this and other dewormers in the same class (including Ivermectin), making them less effective as a dewormer and putting your flock at risk should you encounter a worm infestation.  If you do find you need to use it, put between shoulders much like flea treatments on cats.  Only recommended for adults (may be too strong for chicks).

* Some have recommended Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth ( DE ) Powder as a treatment for existing infestation and in bedding to prevent infestation.  However, there is some debate over its effectiveness and some concern over the respiratory effects.  DE contains breathable coarse dust that can scar the lungs.  Please research DE if you wish to consider using it.

The UN Food and Agriculture Organization published The Epidemiology, Diagnosis and Control of Poultry Parasites (pdf).

Find out more about infestations and treatments at Backyard Poultry Magazine and The University of California.

Some reports indicate that the incidence of mites is more prevalent with the use of wooden roosts.  Consider using another material for your roosts if your flock suffers recurring infestation.

Pasty Butt (Blocked Vent)

A blocked vent is sometimes due to temperature fluctuations suffered by young chicks or more fragile breeds and can be due to stress.  There may be other causes, as well.  With young chicks, check the temperature in your brooder to ensure it is not fluctuating significantly.

A blocked vent is fatal if not taken care of quickly.  A chick suffering pasty butt must be checked on throughout the day and will probably need treatment several times a day for several days.

Treatment:

Clean use a damp rag to remove poo from vent.  If the poo is hard, you can soak the chicks bottom in a dish of warm water or put the chicks bottom under warm running water to help remove it.

Dry thoroughly dry the chick.  Leaving a chick wet can reduce its immunity and leave it vulnerable to illness or infection.

Olive Oil once the chick is dry, use a Q-tip to gently apply olive oil around the vent to help prevent poos from sticking too hard.

Apple Cider Vinegar several BYCers add a drop or two of apple cider vinegar to drinking water to prevent or reduce the severity of pasty butt.  (one tablespoon per gallon)

Impacted and Sour Crop

Chickens need grit to digest food in the crop.  When food gets blocked in the crop and cannot be digested, the result is an impacted crop.  It presents as a hard lump in the chest.  Check for this in the morning as it can be confused for a full crop, which is normal.  The crop will naturally empty overnight if it is simply a full crop, but an impacted crop will not.  Sometimes and impaction will rot in the crop and become squishy and foul smelling.  This is a sour crop.  Both impacted crop and sour crop keep the bird from digesting food properly.

Impacted Crop Olive oil and massage - olive oil can help loosen an impaction.  Simply put a two or three drops of olive oil at the back of the chicken's throat so that she swallows it and gently massage the crop.  This may need to be repeated.  Make grit available to the chicken, as well.

Sour Crop

Powdered copper sulfate - has anti-fungal properties.  Dosage is 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, changed daily for several days.  This will also inhibit the growth of certain types of bacteria, an added benefit.  Can be used with apple cider vinegar.

Apple cider vinegar (ACV) - aids in the removal of mucus build up in the digestive tract that may contribute to sour crop.  Can be used with the powdered copper sulfate.

** Recipe for sour crop (found offsite) ** Coper Sulfate measurements.. be exact Use 1 gm (0.035 oz) of Copper Sulfate (bluestone) to 2 litres (3.52 pints) of water be very careful about the measurements of the Copper Sulfate too much will kill your bird Add 2 teaspoons of Apple Cider Vinegar Mix in some Cranberry Juice to make it more palatable for the birds to drink and disguise the taste of the copper sulfate and vinegar Give this medicated water as the sole source of drinking water for 4 to 7 days, in some cases you may need to extend this time until you feel that the condition is over Do not use metal containers only plastic ones Put the mixture out fresh each day

Suction - in severe cases of sour crop, connect a soft catheder tube to a needless syringe.  The catheter must be inserted down the throat and into the crop.  This is uncomfortable for the chicken and you may give her a drop or two of Bach's Rescue Remedy to help calm her for this process.  Once the catheter is in the crop, carefully pull the plunger of the syringe to suck liquid from the crop.

* I have seen recommendations for making a chicken vomit to remove sour crop, also, but I have lost my link for this.  If somebody has proper instructions for this, please post so I can add it.

Wry Neck (Crooked Neck)

A bent neck can be a genetic condition or can be the result of a vitamin deficiency.  When it is the result of a genetic condition, there is no treatment.  Some breeds, such as silkies, are more prone to getting it genetically.  Vitamin treatment is still worth a try.  If the wry neck is a result of vitamin deficiency, the vitamin treatment should clear it up.

Vitamin E gel caps with Selenium - give the chicken the liquid from the gel caps.  Make sure to get the kind with Selenium for proper absorption.

Polyvisol without iron - this is a liquid vitamin supplement labeled for infants.  Get it at the drug store or some grocery stores.  Can be used in addition to vitamin E when treating wry neck.

A more comprehensive treatment:

First week:

Twice a day 2.5 mg of prednisone 400 IU of vitamin E

Once a day A piece of human vitamin B complex pill or a squirt of human liquid vitamins Selenium (50 micrograms/day for half size juvenile for 3 days)

For the second week:

Once a day 2.5 mg of prednisone 400 IU of vitamin E A piece of human vitamin B complex pill or a squirt of human liquid vitamins

Every other day Selenium (50 micrograms/day for half size juvenile for 3 days)

For the following weeks:

Once a day 2.5 mg of prednisone 400 IU of vitamin E A piece of human vitamin B complex pill or a squirt of human liquid vitamins

Every third day Selenium (50 micrograms/day for half size juvenile for 3 days)

Do not abruptly stop prednisone, the swelling rebounds, decrease dose gradually.

Vitamin E recovery can be slow; continue the vitamin E for several weeks at least.

Worms

All three wormers have the standard two week withdrawal period (do not eat eggs or slaughter for consumption before the end of the withdrawal period). It is best to to do a second worming 10-14 days after the initial worming to kill larva that the first dosing might have missed, effectively ending the worms reproduction and life cycle.  It's best to use Valbazen first (it slowly kills worms over several days preventing toxic worm overload) then 10 days later repeat worming with Safeguard.

Wazine - the only wormer labeled for use in chickens, but it only treats large round worms.  Follow label instructions.

Valbazen (albendazole) - a liquid cattle/sheep wormer. Dosage is given orally, 1/2cc for standard size chickens and 1/4cc for smaller chickens.

Safeguard paste (fenbendazole) - an equine wormer. Dosage is a "pea" size amount given to each chicken orally. Safeguard liquid goat wormer is given orally; 1cc for giants, 3/4cc for large chickens/roosters, 1/2cc for standard size and 1/4cc for smaller chickens.

See this pdf flier from Aviagen for worm pics and recommended wormers.

Normal and Abnormal Poops Click here for an excellent photo reference of normal and abnormal chicken poops.  You may be surprised at all the various poops that are normal!

Avian Diseases Transmissible to Humans Click here for a list of diseases humans can get from chickens and other birds.  Keep in mind that it is pretty uncommon for healthy individuals to suffer such illnesses and good hygiene practices (washing your hands after handling chickens) are adequate for most people to stay healthy.

Williams-Sonoma wants you to have chickens!

Re-blogged from

Williams-Sonoma Launches Agrarian Line

| April 2, 2012 | By Amber Benham

Chicken coop (Photo courtesy of Williams-Sonoma)

At Edible nothing warms our hearts like somebody learning to grow their own tomatoes or make their own ricotta. We’re all about empowering home cooks to take control of their food, both where it comes from and how it’s made. So when Williams-Sonoma told us they’d be launching a new line this April to help customers take their food from seed to table, we couldn’t have been more pleased. The new line, Agrarian, will launch this Thursday, April 5th online and then on April 9th in a few stores across the country (none in New York just yet). We got a sneak peak at the products included in the new line and thought we’d share a few.

Shiitake Mushroom Log (Photo courtesy of Williams-Sonoma)

For home gardeners, or wannabe urban farmers, there are raised bed planters, heirloom seeds, live plants, slate garden markers from our own Brooklyn Slate and even chicken coops! Kitchen enthusiasts will love the home canning tools, DIY cheesemaking kits, and kombucha kits. Our personal fave? The shiitake mushroom log. It’s just so cute and boy, wouldn’t it be nice to pluck a few homegrown shiitakes off your window sill when you’re making dinner?

Raised beds (Photo courtesy of Williams-Sonoma)

“There’s a wide range of people who live in the suburbs or in the city who maybe aren’t growing their own herbs or food and here’s a way for them to get started,” said Shannon Gomes, public relations manager for Williams-Sonoma. “We’ve got a DIY cheese kit that only takes a gallon of milk and one hour and you’ll have your own mozzarella and ricotta cheese.”

In addition to the 275 products being featured in the new Agrarian line, for the past year or so Williams-Sonoma has been experimenting with something called “Artisan Market”–an initiative to highlight and bring local food purveyors into its stores. On the first Saturday of each month at six locations around the country, including our Columbus Circle store, local food and drink makers are invited to show off their goods. The selection of vendors changes quarterly, but some of the folks that have turned out so far include: Brooklyn Seeds, Brooklyn Slate, Kombucha Brooklyn, Brooklyn Brine, Early Bird Granola, Rough Confections, Saucy Sauce, Emily’s Homemade, One Girl Cookies, Dulce Nona, Crown Maple, and Kyotofu. The program has been a big hit so far, resulting in robust sales, according to Allison O’Connor, Williams-Sonoma’s vice president of merchandising. So far there are Artisan Markets in New York, Chicago, Atlanta, San Francisco, Austin and Portland, Oregon.

Organic apple cider vinegar for chickens + dosage

Organic apple cider vinegar can be used as a de-wormer.  It will not kill all the worms, but keep them and other parasites at bay.  If you have a real infestation you need to figure out what kind they are (sample to the vet) and then get the correct wormer. ACV will also prevent algae from growing in the water.  YEA!  I give my chickens several options for water though, with and with out the ACV.  The dosage is 1 tablespoon per gallon.  Do Not put it in a metal container it is bad for the chickens.  It will corrode the metal as well. (this also applies to electrolytes)

You need to use organic apple cider vinegar.  You need the yeasty chemical at the bottom called the "mother".  The ACV that is not "organic" is actually plain white vinegar with carmel coloring.  It won't do you any good.

What should I feed my chickens?

UPDATED INFO:

For NEW articles about chicken feed, check out Happy DIY Home. They just posted an up-to-date article with lots of great information. It has all the Pro’s and Con’s of different chicky feed.

Chicks If you're starting out with baby chicks, you'll need to get a chick starter feed.  There are both organic and non-organic, medicated and not.  That is totally up to you.  I used non medicated and they were fine.  Chick starter contains the nutrients and high protein that quickly growing chicks need. Kick start your BOK BOK's

Pullets After about 12 weeks, your chicks are now  pullets.  They're not babies anymore (sigh) and they're not laying any eggs, so they are teenagers!  At this time (approximately 10 to 18 weeks of age) begin feeding your chickens a grower feed.  I fed mine the crumbles Vs. pellets.  The Grower Feed has less protein than the chick starter, and less calcium than the layer feed.

Layers:

When a hen gets 5-6 months of age, she's ready to start laying eggs. It's time to start feeding chickens layer feed at this time. It has more calcium, to help them lay strong shelled eggs and to give them the added nutrients they need to lay several eggs a week (it's hard work!)

In addition to feeding chickens some form of feed, it's also important to give them additional 

calcium (such as oyster shell or baked and crushed egg shells)

 and grit. The calcium, again, helps with egg production while the grit acts as 'teeth' inside their stomachs, helping to grind up all the food they've eaten.

Treats:

There are all sorts of treats you can feed chickens!  

Scratch

is a great treat for them and encourages healthy scratching behavior.  It is also good to give it to them before a cold night, as it raises their body temps.  reversely do not give them scratch when it is hot.  Cool treats only!  Mine also  love fruit.  

Watermelon and bananas

specifically.  I recently gave them some yogurt for their tummy troubles, and they loved that too!  They also love crickets and meal worms.  There's a wide variety of 'extras' you can feed your flock, just go easy on it.  Too many treats for chickens and they could get sick.

Foraging

We free range our chickens all day while we are at work.  This is great because they love to forage in a free range environment, chickens will also feed themselves.  They love bugs, worms, slugs, weeds, and even snakes...so gross!  The only problem is when your gone, you never know what else they might be getting into.  Mine hop the fence and cruise the neighborhood.  So you never know what they might get into.

For more articles about chicken feed, check out Happy DIY Home. They just posted an up to date article with lots of great information.

Plants and their acoustic benefits

Chickens like to chat and report on current events.  Like HEY HEY HEY I am laying in egg in here!  Or the day-to-day soft bok bok bok bok, which is a happy foraging noise. Or Penny (my alarmist) Everybody its getting dark..no seriously..we should go in.. i am not kidding, I want to go in.  Which can be a little shrill and loud.  However, it is nothing compared to the neighborhood dogs.  (Or the bass mariachi coming from the alley) anyhoo... Here are some plants that will muffle chicken noise from your neighbors, and vice a versa.

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="490" caption="Bamboo "][/caption]

Bamboo is a great plant for privacy and noise reduction!  Or horsetail reed.

[caption id="attachment_686" align="aligncenter" width="490" caption="horse tail reed"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_681" align="aligncenter" width="490" caption="Feather Grass"][/caption]

Any tall rustling grass will buffer noise.

[caption id="attachment_682" align="aligncenter" width="473" caption="ok, this is just regular grass..but look how cute!"][/caption]

Also, plants and trees with seed pods will create a natural wind chime effect.

Hopefully this will help when you are designing a perfect chicken backyard.

Thinking about a garden.. Free-Range chicken garden!

My girls are pretty hard on anything green, and now my backyard looks like the moon.  We had to fence off the bamboo plants, and they have eaten everything else.. So I have to start over! I am hoping to get this book for Valentines Day: Free-Range Chicken Gardens: How to Create a Beautiful, Chicken-Friendly Yard: By Jessi Bloom, Photographs by Kate Baldwin  

[caption id="attachment_649" align="aligncenter" width="490" caption="This is the cutest book ever!!"][/caption]

Here are some "chicken proof plants" from inside the book!

Rose of Sharon * Most shrubs and bushes * Blackcurrants * Rosemary * Lavender * Hardy Geraniums * Hardy Fuschias * Foxgloves * Primroses * Pelargoniums * Oriental Grasses * Clematis * Roses * Honeysuckle * Perennial Sweetpeas * Wormwood * Petunias *Andromeda (Pieris species) *Azalea * Barberry * California lilac * Cotton lavender * Euonymus  *Evergreen ferns (Polystichum species) *Fatsia * Forsythia (Forsythia × intermedia) * Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) Will see about that * Hebes * Lilac (Syringa species) * Mahonia (Mahonia species) * Mexican orange (Choisya ternata) * Osmanthus (Osmanthus species) * Pittosporum * Salal (Gaultheria shallon) * Spiraea * Spurge (Euphorbia species) * Viburnum * Weigela *Bee balm, bergamot (Monardaspecies) * Black-eyed Susan (Rudbekiaspecies) * Bluebeard (Caryopteris species) * Calla lily (Zantedeschia species) * Cape fuchsia (Phygelius capensis) * Catmint, catnip (Nepeta species) * Colum bine (Aquilegia species) * Coneflower * Crocosmia * Daylily (Hemerocallis species) * Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) & Grape hyacinth (Muscari species) * Hardy fuchsias (Fuchsia species) * Hardy geranium (Geranium species) * Iris (Iris species) * Japanese anemone (Anemone japonica) * Lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis) * Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) * Lily of the Nile (Agapanthus species) * Mission bells (Fritillaria species) * Peony (Paeonia species) * Peppermint (Mentha ×piperita) * Russian sage (Perovskia species) * Sedum (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’) * Shasta daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum) * * Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

Keep Chickens out of anything you plan on eating.  You could get really sick from the droppings.  Here are some chicken resistant herbs/veggies:

Garlic * Onions * Leeks * Potatoes *Squashes * Legumes, Chives * basil * mint oregano * thyme * Tarragon * Sage * Rhubarb (slightly toxic) * Parsley * Cougettes * Climbing beans once established * Current Bushes (without fruit) * Asparagus (once in leaf) * Spearmint (Mentha spicata)

Ground covers:

Bishop’s hat * Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens) * Christmas rose (Helleborus species)* Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster species) * Deadnettle (Lamium species) * Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium) * Geum (Geum species) * Japanese spurge (Pachysandra terminalis) 8 Juniper (Juniperus species) *Lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina) * Leadwort (Plumbago auriculata) * Lilyturf (Liriope species) * Marjoram (Origanum majorana) * Oregano (Origanum vulgare) * Phlox (Phlox species) * Sedge (Carex species) * Sedum (Sedum species) * St Johns wort (Hypericum perforatum) * Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum)

Click here to buy this book for me...I mean you.

Chicken Concierge

Spring break is right around the corner, and as your finalizing your plans... don’t leave the chickens to the last minute!  Your chickens deserve the best concierge.  Please email me for prices.  Prices depend on where you are located.  I will happily provide the following.

• AM visit: Let the birds out of the coop, feed, and water, collect eggs.
• PM visit: Close the birds up in the coop, feed, and water, collect eggs.
• Extended Service: Watch the birds for an hour while they free range in the yard. (depends on day)
• Coop maintenance bedding change, mulch flip, straw fluffing
• Emergency vet visit: Take any birds that appear sick to the vet.

PS. Have a kitty or a dog?  Not a problem!  For an additional fee per pet, I will make sure your furry family is in as excellence shape as your feathered one. 

Flock Block

We picked up a flock block today at tractor supply!  Thus far, the girls seem to really like it!  I recommend this for:

1. Boredom, keep chickens busy! (aka less likely to become cannibals)
2. Helps keep beaks short
3. Contains oyster grit
4. Encourages natural pecking
5. Its 25 pounds of yuummmy!

You could also make your own at home!  I found this recipe here.

Ingredients: almond meal - a little hazelnut meal wheat - 2 cups pistachios - a handful soup mix - 2 cups nibble mix - one bag (pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds and such such) poppyseeds - about a cup raisins - two boxes chopped dates - big bag some other smashed nuts udon noodles - four packs flour - 2 cups oatmeal - 1 cup polenta meal - 2 cups dark corn syrup - 1/2 cup or molasses eggs - 6 coconut oil - 1/2 cup (melted)

I pressed these hard into trays that were very well greased with more coconut oil. The mix was lovely and firm, easily holding shape when pressed into a ball. Into the oven for at 160 degrees for 90 minutes for the muffins, then I turned it down to around 130 and baked the larger blocks for a further hour or so. They came out only very slightly pressable/springy, then dried nicely hard.

They take about a half day to a day to eat a muffin sized block, so I'm really happy with them.

Here they are in the oven:

12 Must Haves for a coop

1. Provides space for all the hens (depends on the breed)
2. Has ventilation
3. No drafts
4. Maintains a comfortable temperature
5. Protection from the elements
6. Keeps out rodents, wild birds and predators.
7. Has plenty of light during the day (not directly across from the nest box)
8. Plenty of roosting space. (depends on the size of hens you have)
9. clean nest boxes with lots of fluffy nesting material.
10. Super cleaning feed and water stations
11. Easy for you to clean (figure this into your coop design)
12. Has good drainage in the run (use mulch with no dye like Cypress Mulch)

When it comes to chicken keeping, cleanliness is the most important thing you can do for your flock and family.  A soiled coop is the fastest way to harm your chickens, alienate your neighbors and give the rest of us a bad name.  NO messy coops people!

How to wrap your chicken coop for the winter

There is no need to re-write the book on this.  The Garden Coop people have it all figured out.  Here is a great tutorial about how to keep your chickens out of cold rain and snow.

[slideshow]

Tips on wrapping your coop with plastic sheeting

• Use plastic sheeting that’s durable enough to hold up in the wind. Thickness is measured in mils. I used a roll of 4-mil polyethylene film, which you should be able to get at any hardware store. For comparison, a heavy-duty garbage bag is around 2-mil thick.
• Roll out your plastic sheet to the length you need and cut it to size. You decide how much your chicken coop or run that you want to enclose based on your local weather, angle of the sun, etc. I’ve found that on our Garden Coop, covering the back, right, and at least part of the front side works well to keep out driving rain and up-splash from the drip line in the back. I bring the plastic up about 2/3 of the way, since the roof overhang does a good job of shielding the top third or so. I might cover more, including the area under the henhouse, if conditions become particularly harsh.
• Cut a couple of one-by-twos to the width of each section of the chicken coop that you want to cover, one to attach the film at the top and one at the bottom. If you want to secure any side edges, cut one-by-twos for those too.
• Roll the edge of your plastic sheet around the upper one-by-two a couple times, then attach with a screw on either end (1 1/4″ should do), driving through the plastic and the one-by-two into the studs on the coop. At the bottom, you can do the same thing, or just sandwich the plastic sheet between the one-by-two and the sole plate.
• You’ll see in the pictures below that my plastic sheet was wide enough to simply fold in half and still cover the height I needed, so instead of rolling at the edge, I just tucked the one-by-two into the fold to mount it at the upper end.

The roaring 20’s

Tip of the day:  When it is going to be really cold give your girls cracked corn, or extra scratch right before dusk.  The feed will raise their body temperatures and help them get through the night.  Also, corn or scratch first thing in the morning will help them ease into a cold day.  Or, at least until the sun is out. Plus they love it!

• Since heavy grains rise chickens body heat, Scratch and corn should not be given in hot weather.  Switch to watermelon and cool treats.
• Don't give scratch to chicks, or really young birds.

Hooray! The holidays are over

I am not going to lie.  The past holiday season was brutal.  But, I am feeling better now!  So onward with the news of the Chickens!First of all we are rapidly approaching spring (here in Texas) and if you want to get chicks soon, you’re going to HAVE to start construction on a chicken coop! 

Depending on what you want to build you better get to planning…or calling me so I can plan for you.  

Here is what you should be thinking about…

• Figure out what type of chickens you want and how many.

• Design/Build them a coop for them. Different chickens require different roost, run, and nest box space. (This is serious because an overcrowded coop will lead to cannibalism)

• Get the chicks (Chick Days will be here soon at Tractor supply)

• Wait until the chick’s feather out and purchase 8 week old that are out from under a heat source. (tractor supply will not have them, but I know where to get them)

Hurry up!! Or you're going to miss out on all the chicken fun!

chickpostcrd1

10 Great Reason to Keep Chickens

[caption id="attachment_318" align="aligncenter" width="490" caption="Lola cooling off in the water pan"][/caption]

1. Know where your eggs come from.  You can be part of the solution! Factory farms do unspeakable harm to chickens.  I wont go into details, because I will just get upset.  Google it for yourself. When you raise your own eggs you know that the hens were treated humanly, feed well, and given space they deserve.
2. You can produce enough eggs for your family and others What a great lesson for you and your children.  Teaching them about where their food really comes from.  Also, teaching them to share with others.  You will become an ambassador for fresh food and sharing!
3. Natural pest control! Chickens eat mosquitoes, ticks, cockroaches, pretty much all insects that are pests! (even mice and snakes, turns out chickens are not chicken)
4. Endless entertainment Chickens are endless entertainment.  They are always exploring and playing around.  They have a lot of personality!  Running and pecking.  Looking for grubs.  Your chickens will run up to you after a long day at work (looking for snacks)..but its still really cute.
5. Easy to care for If you can take care of a dog, you can take care of a small flock of chickens.
6. Home grown eggs are WAY better for you.  1/3 less cholesterol • 1/4 less saturated fat • 2/3 more vitamin A • 2 times more omega-3 fatty acids • 3 times more vitamin E • 7 times more beta carotene
7. Free Range does not mean Free. Cage free is a joke. Terms like 'free-range' and 'cage-free' don't always mean what people think (and hope) they mean. In fact, because there is very little regulation for these words, they basically have no meaning whatsoever. Cage-free is simply that the chickens aren't raised in battery cages but that doesn't mean they aren't stuffed into huge houses with forty thousand other chickens, leading only a slightly less miserable life than if they were in cages.  They do not get to go outside.
8. For all the Money you can make!  Just Kidding! Just Kidding! You will not make money with selling your backyard flocks eggs.  Don't get me wrong, I sell my eggs at work, but not at a great profit.  Your reward will be will be wonderful though!  The chickens are so fun, and you don't want to be part of the food problem in America..it's just gross and sad.
9. You will make new friends You will for sure meet other people with chickens.  You may even be on a coop tour!  Way to be awesome.  Teach people about chickens, and improve their health with home grown eggs.
10. You have to take care of yourself!   There are too many people and not enough ways to feed them..so its all being mass produces in the most disgusting ways.  The government watch over our food safety by testing one in every 18 million eggs consumed, which is hardly reassuring.

1. Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Real-Food/2007-10-01/Tests-Reveal-Healthier-Eggs.aspx#ixzz1gejOOXBw 

Egg- cellent questions of the day

Q. Should wash my eggs in hot water?

A. No, you will wash off the bloom and possibly transfer bacteria from the outside to the inside!

When a chicken lays an egg, there is a microscopically thin membrane that covers the shell. This membrane is called "the bloom". The bloom actually blocks the pores that allow air and germs to transfer into an egg, causing aging and possible contamination.  Eventually, the bloom will wear away because of handling, etc, allowing air to transfer into the egg - and maybe some other stuff, too. Leaving an egg unwashed allows the bloom to do its job.

Q. How do I clean my eggs if they are dirty?

A.  Use a fine grit sandpaper to buff off the dirt.  Or use the abrasive part of the sponge.  Make sure that sponge is used exclusively for this purpose and it never touches dishes, sink, or counter.  Salmonella is a bacterium found in chicken manure and you should be cautious of it in your kitchen.

Also try to scrub the dirt away from the egg rather than scrubbing down onto the egg.  You could push harmful bacteria into the porous shell.

Q. Eggs need to be refrigerated, right?

A. No, they don't. The average egg, if left unwashed, can be stored on your kitchen counter in a bowl for up to two weeks prior to having any obvious aging effects.

Q. How long are eggs good for? A. Eggs last about 4-5 weeks in your refrigerator. If you don't know how long the egg has been in the refrigerator, fill a cup with water (enough to cover the egg), and put the egg in the cup. If the egg sinks to the bottom, it is still good to eat; if the egg floats, however, it is bad and should be discarded.

Q. Why does the egg yolk turns greenish gray when overcooked?

A. The sulphur in egg white reacts with the iron in egg yolk when the egg is heated. They react with each other and *BOOM*  we observe the gray coloration on the egg yolk.

*Blog reference  www.chickenkeepingsecrets.com

Bok Bok Brrrr…

This week the temperatures have dipped into the 20’s.  If you do not have your coop winterized yet here are some tips.

• Make sure your coop is not drafty.  Caulk any gaps or cracks that might be causing a draft.  Chicken coops need to be ventilated; however a draft across your ladies is no good.
• Add extra pines shavings to the bottom of the “inside house” part of the coop.  A couple extra inches will help insulate the floor.  Toasty chicken toes.
• Install a Digital Wireless Weather Thermometer Indoor/Outdoor.  Now you will be able to check the temp inside the coop, from inside your house.  I recommend this one an AcuRite Digital Wireless Weather Thermometer Indoor/Outdoor, 00604

• Heat lamps.  Depending on the size and shape of your coop will determine how many you need.  I recommend this one:
• Use it with a ceramic infrared heat emitter…No light just heat!  Make sure you purchase the mesh safety cover so the hens don’t get too close. 

Hook the whole system up to a Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlet.  This will turn the lamps on automatically at 35 and turn them off at 45.

You will read on the internet that chickens don't mind the cold...but as the curator of their lives it is your responsibility to keep them as safe and happy as possible.  If you need assistance with your winterization project please contact me.

[caption id="attachment_146" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="I don’t know where this photo originated!  If it is yours contact me so I can give you full credit for being so awesome"][/caption]

Consulting services up!

Service	Details	Rates per hour
Assessment Consultation "I am interested, but don't know where to start?"	About 2 hours at your residence Assessment of space and coop plans Information on care and keeping of chickens Answers to questions at time of consultation or with an e-mail follow-up One phone consultation after initial visit	$40
Chicken Procurement “where do we get chicks?  What is a Pullet?”	I will help you acquire your first chicks, pullets, or hens. Assessment of which flock is best for you and your family? Have children, needed docile chicken? *NOTE: Please do not mail order chicks, it is very stressful for the birds.  They are often abandoned in post offices without food and water.  Shipments can also get lost in the mail.	$40
Coop and Run Consultation“Pre-fab coop? Custom coop?  That is a great question!  Do you want it to blend in, or be a focal point?”	A visit to your residence to choose best location and housing type Advice and/or assistance with building your dream coop. Information on feeders, waters, feed, and general information on chicken accessories Information on coop security Seasonal Coop I.E. Heating and Cooling Chicken Budgeting One free 15-minute phone consultation after initial visit	$40
Design and Build“Are you a mid-century modern coop or a Victorian?”	Custom designed coop and run Have your own plans and need a builder?  We are happy to procure materials, and build to specs We place special emphasis on form and function; our chicken houses are cheerful, light and airy, with excellent ventilation and windows for natural lighting.	Varies to size and scale of project

From under the lamp to in the coop	A visit to your residence to help your pullets transition to their new coop (about 1 hour) Information on feeding, watering, egg laying general care, and common illnesses Answers to questions at time of consultation or via e-mail follow-up One free follow up phone call	$40
Follow up anytime “Can you come out and look at this?”	A visit to your residence to make sure that your hens are healthy Information on feeding, watering, egg laying general care, and common illnesses Answers to questions at time of consultation or via e-mail follow-up One free follow up phone call	$40
911 Phone Call	Troubleshooting advice over the phone for a sick bird Phone call fee can be applied to Emergency House Call fee if I come out within 24 hours	$20 (payable by PayPal or check prior to phone call)
Chicken Sitting	Daily visits to water and feed Bedding changes Egg collection Special instructions welcome	Varies on location
911 House Call	A visit to your residence to assess a sick bird Research to determine possible causes of sickness Care to address problem, if possible, OR suggestions for care (may include referral for veterinary medicine) Suggestions for follow-up care and care for other members of flock	$75
Add-On Service “I want chickens, but I don’t have time to go out and get everything for them!	Coop maintenance Procurement of supplies needed for your chickens Instillation of seasonal need like lights and heaters	$35 per hour, billable in ½- hour increments

the coop a cabana

This is our chicken coop.  It was designed and built by myself and my husband Benjamin.  The coop has three nest boxes and enough roost space for 6+ hens.  Since we live in Dallas the coop has been built in the shadiest part of our backyard.  The windows are oriented to take the least amount of rain and wind.  It has a large access doors for cleaning.  We cut linoleum to place in the bottom of the coop.  It is covered with pine shavings and is hardly ever soiled, but it is nice to have the option of removal.  There are two lights in the coop which are on automatic timers.  The chickens need a certain amount of light to keep laying eggs.  We also have two ceramic bulbs that do not emit light, but heat for when it is cold.  They are also set on a timer to come on at 35 degrees and shut off at 45 degrees.

I will get into more of the in’s and outs of the coop in different sections.

Chicken Consulting

[caption id="attachment_17" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Easter 2011"][/caption] I am the caretaker of all creatures great and small (James Herriot).  More specifically six backyard hens.  Lola, Mrs. Cluckersworth, Penny, Quennie, Marpoo, and Aunt Mildred.  They are red/black stars and two silver laced wyandottes.

I want to help you keep urban chickens successfully.  Thoughtful planning on the front end of your project will ensure you have a wonderful experience.  I can tailor the perfect chicken keeping scenario that best fits your space and life.  A custom coop and maintenance program is a must.

As a professional event designer and manager.  I organized and execute all my endeavors with the same panache.

Did you know windows should not face your nestbox?  Do you know what size nestbox you need?  Or how much room each chicken needs on a roost?  No worries!  I do.